Beauty Sleuth #18 - Gluten Free Skincare?

Over the last few months, I have become interested in the gluten-free movement. I don’t have celiac disease, but studies have shown that gluten-sensitivity is a spectrum and many of us are more susceptible to inflammation and irritation from gluten than we might have otherwise thought (non-celiac gluten sensitivity). I also get a lot of questions about “natural skincare” and “organic skincare”. I think the confusion of gluten is stemming from the same concern about ingredients that might be “toxic”. So….as a Beauty Sleuth…I decided to break it down. Let’s address the main concern for this post: Should you be concerned about gluten in your skincare products?

First of all, what the heck is gluten? It’s a protein found in wheat, barley and rye, and is found in the majority of foods made with these grains. Many people use the term “gluten allergy” interchangeably with the terms celiac disease and non-celiac gluten sensitivity, but they are not the same thing. Celiac is an auto-immune disease and is quite different in how the body reacts and handles it than how it handles an allergy to wheat. While some of the symptoms may be similar, many are vastly different and arise at very different times (a wheat allergy can be immediate with sneezing, sniffling, rash etc, while a celiac reaction could take much longer and be gastrointestinal and/or cognitive). 

When it comes to skincare products, the best that I can sleuth out is that concern in that arena is understandable given all the press (thank you Gwyneth Paltrow… #not  🙍🏻), yet unfortunately most of the time, the concern is misplaced and misunderstood. The Mayo Clinic states “<<for those with celiac disease>> gluten-containing skin care products and cosmetics aren’t a problem unless you accidentally swallow them. For this reason, avoid using such products on your lips or around your mouth. Also, avoid using gluten-containing dental products, such as certain mouthwashes and toothpastes.” The Gluten Free Dietician website reasoned “You really don’t need to worry about products you apply to your skin, such as body lotion, sunscreen, shaving cream, deodorant, makeup, and perfume. You also do not need to worry about products you apply to your hair, such as shampoo and conditioner.” It appears that most sources agree that it is not possible to absorb gluten protein through the skin. The gluten protein is too large. However, it could happen that if you have celiac’s disease, you might inadvertently ingest something - maybe a bit of shampoo while in the shower drips down on your face when rinsing etc. I understand that celiac disease would rather be safe than sorry, given the number of gluten-free products and choices out there now, however, it’s important to put any risk in perspective for the average person. 

THE BOTTOM LINE:

We don’t need to worry about gluten in skincare products since it cannot readily be absorbed the skin. 

Now anyone can have a reaction to an ingredient in a skincare product and that product might contain gluten, but research shows that its most likely that you are reacting to a different ingredient. Ingredients that cause a reaction when ingested, rarely cause a reaction when applied topically. There is also a difference between an irritation and a true skin allergy. For example, Benzoyl-Peroxide at 10% may cause redness and irritation, but at 5% can be handled just fine and make a big difference in your acne. 

When in doubt, if you think you may have an allergy to an ingredient in a product, try a patch test. Apply the product in a small area of the neck for three to four days. If you get itchiness or redness, return the product to the manufacturer. If you don’t get a reaction, but know that you tend to be sensitive, start by using the product every other day. Then ramp up the following week to daily use, and then twice daily the third week or as directed by your skincare provider. If you suspect a true allergy, your doctor can do a pin-prick test for that and other ingredients that you suspect could be causing itching or rash etc.

Why not just avoid any suspect ingredient all together? Of course that’s not always practical or even logical.  And the practical downside is you may end up avoiding products, medications and foods that your body tolerates just fine, and in the skincare arena, you could miss out on some key skin benefits!! All the products that I carry in the Rodan and Fields skincare line (except 2 products in the Soothe line) are gluten-free, including the lip balm (which is the only thing that could be easily ingested). 

So bottom line is not to jump on the gluten-free bandwagon too quickly when it comes to skincare, especially if you are not diagnosed with celiac disease. Make sure you are not missing out on skincare with fabulous ingredients that could make a huge difference in your skin.