Beauty Sleuth #12: Skin Cancer from a Manicure?

I’ve been asked this question more than once: “Can I get skin cancer from the lights used to cure a gel manicure?” Most recently during my presentation on the science of the sun at Rancho La Puerta in Mexico. It’s an interesting question, because in order to “cure” the gel in a gel manicure, you have to put your nails under UV light. So fact or fib?

First of all, let’s break down what we are even talking about. Then, we will discuss the science. And finally, we can assess the risk. 

A gel manicure is different from a traditional manicure in that it dries in a matter of minutes under UV light, takes less time than a traditional manicure, lasts up to three weeks, and is budge proof / smudge proof / chip proof! Interestingly as well, gel manicures can be “life-changing” for some. “Regular nail polish may not adhere properly to a damaged nail or provide enough coverage to mask discoloration, according to board-certified dermatologist Chris G. Adigun (who wrote this opinion for American Academy of Dermatology), but a gel polish can do both, which makes gel manicures a good option for many patients with nail disorders.” 

So what’s not to like? Well, the cost is a bit more (but I think it’s a wash since a gel manicure lasts so much longer), and there are two nagging rumors that persist about these types of manicures…(1) that your nails will thin over time if you get them regularly and (2) that you might get skin cancer from the UV light. It’s the later rumor we will address here. The UV light (specifically UVA rays) is needed to cure the gel, and we know that UV rays can cause skin cancer and photo-aging. There are two types of lamps used: florescent and LED. Both emit UV radiation and it’s a “fib” that LED lamps emit less than florescent. 

What is known about the science is that UVA exposure causes cancer. BUT there is no data that links gel manicures to skin cancer. NO. DATA. NO. EVIDENCE. Hopefully more studies will be done in the future. Now, there are still risks to sitting under UVA light, even for just a few minutes a month. The effects of UVA light are cumulative. Those of us who love gel manicures (my hand is raised here), could suffer aging, brown spots and wrinkles on our hands due to this effect. How bad is it? Well, look, I like to put issues in perspective. Are you using sunscreen regularly on your face and body and protecting yourself each and every day (not just when you go to the beach or when you are “going to be outside”)? If not, then that’s what you need to be thinking about…not your gel manicure every three weeks. Are you using a tanning bed every now and then? Don’t even get me started on that - you should immediately research the terrible KNOWN effects of tanning beds before you start talking about gel manicures! 

What can you do to protect yourself and still get an awesome, shiny, gorgeous manicure that makes you feel like a million bucks such that you can take on the world? There are several forms of protection to consider. 

(1) Use SPF on the backs of your hands before the manicure. My favorite is this awesome hand balm. I love it because it combines Vitamin C (which helps reduce the appearance of spots and helps firm skin) along with an SPF 30 and it’s super easy to apply to the back of your hands. It’s small so you can whip it out after you have soaked your hands at the salon and apply it before the gel is applied to the nail beds. (Note: don’t apply any kind of SPF to your nail beds before a manicure as it will interfere with the polish adhesion, and your nail beds have a natural SPF.) This balm is outstanding for sports or gardening enthusiasts who don’t want SPF on the palms of their hands due to grip interference. 

(2) Wear special gloves made for manicure situations. These gloves typically have a sun protector woven into them to protect the skin, while the tips are cut off so your nails show. Just Google “gel manicure gloves” and take your pick. 

(3) Create your own gloves by purchasing UPF protected gloves and cut the tips off of them. Remember to bring them to the salon!